Flat-plate solar heating kits and fitting guide for the UK.

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Self-install solar heating panel kits

These first-generation solar heating panels, also known as flat-plate systems are designed to sit-upon or integrate into your existing roof structure.

DIY flat-plate solar heating kits.

MCS approved components and parts.

Find local MCS installers. View schematics

In-roof solar water heating installations in the United Kingdom.

1 In-roof solar panel kits
DIY & trade.
Tank size: 150-220 Litres.

1 x Solar heating panel.
1 x Roof fitting kit.
1 x 18 Litre expansion vessel
1 x Expansion installation kit.
1 x Controller & pump station.
1 x 5 Litres Glycol fluid.
Solar-ready tanks (optional).

2 On-roof solar panels kits
DIY & trade.
Tank size: 220-300 Litres.

2 x Solar heating panels.
1 x Roof fitting kit.
1 x 25 Litre expansion vessel.
1 x Expansion installation kit.
1 x Controller & pump station.
1 x 10 Litres fluid.
Solar-ready tanks (optional).

Install guide: For every 100 -150 Litres tank size installed, you will need one flat-plate panel.


Length: 2206mm x Width: 1205mm x Height: 100mm.
Weight per panel: 55 kg.
Aperture Area: 0.995 m2
Efficiency: 95%.
Fluid Capacity: 550m.

When working with heights, electrics and plumbing, you should always use correct safety equipment. Use professional MCS installers if you're not sure.

Not all flat-plates are equal.

The difference between the two types:

A guide to self-installing flat-plate panels

"Health and safety should always be the main priority when self-installing solar heating panels. Work alongside a roofer or plumber if help is required."

If installing to a sloping roof, it is essential to specify which type of roof you are connecting too, before ordering your kit.

1. The need for scaffolding is essential to create a safe working platform at the gutter height. Additional roof ladders are recommended and preventing damage to your roof slates or tiles.

A professional tip is to measure the roof space from the inside of the loft space to help you decide the panel's location, but bear in mind the route of your pipework which will take the anti-freeze down to the tank coil. The shorter the pipe distance, the better.

With correct the measurements, you can work out the external location and remove the tiles/slates. In-roof panels will require all the roof covering removed in your calculated area, or on-roof installs will only need to remove specific tiles to attach the' roof anchors' to the roof battens.

2. Attach the horizontal rails to the roof anchors and measure the diagonal corner distances to square up before tightening the final bolts.

Lifting up the panels needs to be done with care. We recommend using a roofer's pulley system. Position the panels onto the horizontal rail making sure the inlet and outlet ports are positioned correctly and measure diagonally again to check everything is still squared up.

Creating an entry hole for your pipework can be done either with an additional professional style 'aluminium tile' with a manufactured entry/exit hole or carefully drilling a hole through your existing tile/slate and sealing with a roofing-grade silicone.

Ensure all exposed external pipework is insulated with 'Armoflex pipe insulation' and tied down with plastic cable ties.

3. There are two different options for your pipe run. Purchasing professional 'ready-insulated aluminium pipework' with the temperature sensor cable already installed will not only save time but give you peace of mind. A standard copper pipe run can run, but we recommend using the 'compression' style of connecting your pipes. Soldering/brazing is possible too.

The location of the 'pump station' can be either in the loft space, basement or within the bathroom airing cupboard. The hot water cylinder, however, takes into consideration the 'expansion vessel' located next to it.

4. Most solar heating installations also include upgrading the hot water tank to an unvented or pressurised system. This installation type will require by law a 'G3' accredited plumber to install this kind of cylinder, but more traditional vented or gravity feed systems can be connected with a solar-ready coil.

5. The final stage of your installation will be the 'solar controller' or management system. To install this in your bathroom area, you or someone with you will require a Part 'P' electrical qualification to add this extra spur. Most commonly though, controllers are usually installed in a hallway or with the pump station.

Routing the temperature sensors from your controller's location of the hot water tank and back up to the panels on the roof, can usually follow the existing pipework up towards your solar panels. Make sure the sensors are secured and giving correct readings.

Check and double-check all your pipe joints and electrical connections.

6. Now relax and make a cup of tea. You have now joined a growing army of homeowners who are taking advantage of the benefits of solar panels.


"Forward with confidence."

Stuart Lovatt
Founder of Power My Home.

The UK's only PV and EV installers network.
"Technology that lasts longer than your mortgage."
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