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DIY evacuated solar tubes kits

Evacuated solar tubes are second-generation technologies manufactured to modern and MCS-accredited standards. A-frames are available for ground-mounted installation.

Evacuated solar kits.

Heat-pipes tube kits.
DIY & trade.

Tank size: 200-350 Litres
1 x Evacuated tubes collector.
1 x Roof fitting kit.*
1 x 25 Litre expansion vessel.
1 x Expansion installation kit.
1 x Controller & pump station.
1 x 20 Litres Glycol fluid.
Solar-ready tanks (optional).

Evacuated solar tubes installation in the UK.

MCS-approved components.

Find local MCS installers. Schematic

"When working with heights, electrics, and plumbing, always use the correct safety equipment or work alongside an accredited professional."

The basics

This solar tube technology includes a patented Low E glass. These use a unique 'low-iron' glass formula that has reduced reflective properties and increased absorption.

The glass surface has 360 degrees absorption ability to give better performance than flat-plate technologies. The reason is heat retention and production at lower outdoor temperatures.

Each tube is just like a thermos flask. Once the heat is in, it becomes trapped.

Installation guide

For every 100-180 Litre tank size, you will need two m2 arrays or three m2 for 180-300 Litre.

Self-installing evacuated solar tubes

Health and safety should be a priority when self-installing evacuated solar tubes.

1. Scaffolding will be necessary up to the level of the guttering. This equipment will give you a safe working platform. Making measurements from the inside of the roof space/loft may be helpful.

Choose the shortest route for your pipework to the hot water tank.

2. The roof anchors are fixed into the roof batons. You can remove a tile or slate to gain access. Measuring diagonally from corner to corner will help square up the anchors, ready for the aluminum mainframe.

The best part is attaching the header and tubes to the mainframe.

Pre-assembled collectors will need to be hoisted up using a roofers pulley system. Some self-installers may want to work alongside a roofing company.

An inlet and outlet hole for the pipes can be drilled through the tile/slate and resealed using roof-grade silicone.

Exposed pipework is insulated by an 'Armoflex' sheaf.

3. Routing your pipework down towards the pump station can be done with professional 'ready insulated' pipe lengths containing the temperature sensor wire or more traditional copper pipe.

If the latter, then use 'compression' joints.

Connect the pump station to the correct hot and cold feeds.

An Expansion Vessel gets installed next to the pump station so, allow for this area.

4. Some installations may require an upgraded hot water tank. Unvented or pressurised cylinders are typical, but a traditional vented tank installed with a secondary solar coil is fine.

5. Now decide where to locate The Controller.

6. Pressurising the system with a Glycol fluid can be done with a plumber's pump unit. Flushing the system out of all air bubbles is essential, and the pressure of three bars is standard.

The final operation is to set up the Management Controller and test the temperature sensors are reporting accurate readings.

Check pipework and connections.

7. Enjoy a cup of tea. You've joined a growing army of people taking advantage of solar panel technology.

Home Solar heating panel kits Evacuated solar tube kits PV solar panel kits

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